A Slow Week on Barbuda

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Intro / teaserBarbuda is the quiet half of Antigua and Barbuda, an island of under two thousand people, miles of empty pink sand and almost nothing to hurry for. It is the place I go to actually slow down. I stay at the off-grid Frangipani Eco Lodge, the guesthouse two Barbudan sisters built on family land, run on rainwater and sun. The week that follows is mostly swimming, reading and watching wildlife, with the frigate birds, the Arawak caves and the Art Cafe woven in. Here is a slow week on Barbuda, in the sisters’ own spirit.
Duration7 days
Best monthsDecember to April
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Antigua and Barbuda 7 days Off the Beaten PathSustainable FREE
Best months
aprildecemberfebruaryjanuarymarch

Your Antigua and Barbuda Itinerary at a Glance

  1. Day 1 Day 1: The boat over and the off-grid lodge
  2. Day 2 Day 2: Settle into island time
  3. Day 3 Day 3: The frigate bird sanctuary
  4. Day 4 Day 4: The Arawak caves
  5. Day 5 Day 5: The Art Cafe and a slow town day
  6. Day 6 Day 6: A day of nothing at all
  7. Day 7 Day 7: The boat back

Where to Stay in Antigua and Barbuda

Frangipani Eco Lodge

Home for the week is Frangipani, the off-grid eco lodge two Barbudan sisters built on family land, run on rainwater and solar.

What to Do in Antigua and Barbuda

Swim, read and watch the wildlife

Ease in the way the island wants you to.

Codrington Lagoon frigate birds

Take a small boat across Codrington Lagoon to the frigate bird sanctuary, one of the largest colonies in the world.

Arawak artefacts at the caves

Go looking for the Arawak past at the island's caves, where the first Barbudans left petroglyphs and traces of a life here long before anyone else.

Hike the wild coast

Walk a stretch of the wild Atlantic side afterwards, dunes and driftwood and not a soul.

The Art Cafe

Spend an easy hour at the Art Cafe in Codrington, the island's little hub of art, coffee and conversation.

Back to the sand

Then back to the beach for another long swim and another slow evening.

Where to Eat in Antigua and Barbuda

Cook outside at the lodge

Cook outside as the sisters do, a simple supper in the open air, off-grid and unhurried.

How to Get to Antigua and Barbuda

The ferry from Antigua

Barbuda is a ninety minute boat ride, or a short hop by light aircraft, from Antigua.

The ferry back to Antigua

Back across the water to Antigua, slower than you arrived.

Your Day by Day Antigua and Barbuda Itinerary

Day 1

Day 1: The boat over and the off-grid lodge

Across from Antigua to the quiet island, and into an off-grid home run on rain and sun.

Do Getting here

The ferry from Antigua

Barbuda is a ninety minute boat ride, or a short hop by light aircraft, from Antigua. The crossing is half the point: you watch the busier island fall away behind you and arrive somewhere that runs at a different speed.

Stay Check in

Frangipani Eco Lodge

Home for the week is Frangipani, the off-grid eco lodge two Barbudan sisters built on family land, run on rainwater and solar. A guesthouse and a cabana, no crowds, no noise, and hosts who make you feel like you have been let in on a secret.

Day 2

Day 2: Settle into island time

A whole day to do the things the sisters tell you to do: swim, read, and watch the wildlife.

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Day 3

Day 3: The frigate bird sanctuary

A boat across the lagoon to one of the great wildlife sights of the Caribbean.

Day 4

Day 4: The Arawak caves

Looking for the island's oldest stories in the caves.

Day 5

Day 5: The Art Cafe and a slow town day

Into Codrington for art, coffee and a little island life.

Day 6

Day 6: A day of nothing at all

The whole reason to come this far: a day with no plan.

Day 7

Day 7: The boat back

Leaving the quiet island, already wanting the boat to be cancelled.